Photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures.
A living legend in his own right and now remembered as a remarkable icon of the fashion world. The late Andre Leon Talley epitomized fashion prowess, black power, and noteworthy intelligence.
January 19th, 2022, Talley’s death was announced to the world after having suffered a heart attack, but not before he left a first-hand account of his enriched life in a documentary just a few years earlier. Born in Washington D.C., but not raised there, it’s surprising that Talley actually had a great interest in politics.
His political interest displays throughout his HBO Max documentary, “The Gospel According to Andre.” He was enthralled with the drama of the 2016 presidential election throughout most of the film. His friends joking about him finally returning to normal when it’s over. He seemed to sympathize with the Clinton campaign. Yet, diligently applauded Melania Trump’s, elegant powder blue Ralph Lauren inauguration outfit.
He did this knowing that many in the fashion world would pester him for supporting the controversial president’s wife who was snubbed by many fashion houses in the days leading up to the inauguration. His poise and respect here and at all times were the reflection of Talley’s upbringing who was raised by his grandmother in Durham, North Carolina.
Growing up in the still segregated South as a black man meant that Talley would be expected to excel in his studies and attend church on Sundays. In the film he vividly describes the clothing and accessories of his community at Sunday mass-- an early indication of his love for fashion.
It would be thanks to his grandmother’s job as a maid at Duke University and his proximity to the school’s library that Talley would have access to a glimpse of his future, fashion magazines. Distinguished not only by his tall stature -- 6’6”, Talley outshined in his studies and received a scholarship into a fellow Ivy League university, Brown.
He majored in French studies and perfected a skill that later proved helpful to secure his acceptance in the Paris fashion scene. Talley also continued his interest in fashion at school by mingling with students from the Rhode Island School of Design nearby. Ultimately, he would make an acquaintance that would help him secure an introduction with a legendary Vogue editor Dianna Vreeland.
Photo of Andre Leon Talley dancing with Diana Ross in Studio 54 in New York by John Bright. Courtesy of Magnolia Pictures.
New York would prove conquerable to Talley, who aced his first task at the Metropolitan Museum of Art under Vreeland. She would quickly notice his aptitude for fashion and almost immediately name him her helper for the event. Under her advice Talley would stay in New York waiting for his next opportunity and it did not delay.
He truly took New York by storm landing opportunities in Interview Magazine with Andy Warhol, Women’s Wear Daily, and the biggest of them all Vogue. Proving himself prepared at every step of the way and even earning the respect of Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue since 1988.
It is easy to picture an intelligent, impeccably dressed young black man to fit in so aptly into the world of fashion, but the truth is he was an anomaly. Make no mistake, Talley grew up watching racial protests and even suffered acts of discrimination. Yet, he was hopeful that by being knowledgeable about his passion he could not be turned away in the world he so admired.
“What I recall is not so much that I was his protector, but that, to be totally candid, my fashion history is not so great, and his was impeccable. So, I think, I learned a lot from him,” said Wintour in “The Gospel According to Andre” in reference to their association.
His preparedness would eventually lead him to become the first black editor at Vogue magazine. During his reign he also found himself being the only black man among the front rows of fashion shows. Balenicaga, Lagerfeld, Saint Laurant, among others granted him access and friendships to their fashion houses because above all he was not one to criticize, but instead celebrate new trends. His eye for historic references was unmatched and his ability to communicate the ideas behind emerging fashion was parallel to their creators.
He reflects on his encounters with racism citing that although people didn’t want to accept him they could not resist his knowledge and adequacy. Even as a young boy he never chose to fight racism with violence and instead leaned in further into his education and knowledge to fight against stereotypes of black men and women. For this and the epic vintage film of Talley's early career, the “The Gospel According to Andre” is a must-see film during black history month.
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